Makeup in the Middle Ages: A Complex Tale of Beauty, Health, and Symbolism

 

The Middle Ages, spanning roughly from the 5th to the 15th century, was a period marked by significant social, cultural, and political change in Europe. Amidst this backdrop, makeup played a multifaceted role in the lives of people, serving purposes that extended far beyond the modern-day concept of cosmetics. In this essay, we will explore the diverse uses and meanings of makeup in the Middle Ages, encompassing its role in beauty standards, health practices, and symbolism.

Beauty and Status

In the Middle Ages, beauty standards were distinct from our contemporary ideals. Fair, pale skin was highly prized, as it was associated with nobility and wealth. The primary makeup product used to achieve this look was called "ceruse." Ceruse was made by mixing white lead with vinegar and sometimes water, creating a paste that could be applied to the face and neck. This toxic concoction not only gave the appearance of pale skin but also protected the wearer from the sun, which was a sign of status since peasants often had sun-tanned skin due to outdoor labor.

Moreover, red or rosy cheeks were also considered desirable, as they were associated with good health and vigor. Women used various natural ingredients like crushed berries or herbs to create blushes. Additionally, crushed gemstones like rubies were sometimes used to add a touch of shimmer to the cheeks.

Eyebrows and eyelashes were not overlooked in the pursuit of beauty. Darkened eyebrows were considered attractive, and women used various substances like soot or plant-based dyes to achieve this look. Some even went to the extent of plucking their eyebrows entirely and then drawing them back in higher on the forehead, giving the illusion of a higher hairline, which was considered a sign of beauty.

Health and Hygiene

Makeup in the Middle Ages also served as a means to address various health concerns. The use of ceruse, despite its toxicity, was believed to protect the skin from blemishes, and it was considered an effective treatment for conditions like smallpox and syphilis. The lead in ceruse had astringent properties, which helped to tighten the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

Furthermore, eye makeup was utilized not just for aesthetic purposes but also for health reasons. Eyeliner, often made from kohl, a black powder obtained from minerals, was applied around the eyes. This served a dual purpose: it was believed to protect against the evil eye and also to reduce the glare of the sun, which could cause eye strain and discomfort.

In addition to these uses, cosmetics were often fragranced with scented oils and herbs, which helped mask unpleasant odors in an era where bathing was infrequent. This served both cosmetic and hygienic purposes, making the wearer more socially acceptable.

Symbolism and Spirituality

Makeup in the Middle Ages also had strong ties to spirituality and symbolism. The application of makeup was considered a way to align oneself with religious and cultural beliefs.

Religious Symbolism: Makeup played a significant role in religious ceremonies and rituals. For instance, during the medieval period, Christian religious plays and pageants often featured characters with heavily painted faces, representing various moral or religious attributes. Additionally, nuns would use makeup to enhance their appearance during special religious occasions.

Social Class Signifiers: Makeup was also used as a way to denote social class and roles in society. The wealthy would often wear more elaborate and expensive makeup, showcasing their status and affluence. Conversely, peasants and laborers would have limited access to cosmetics and would generally go without.

Gender Roles: The Middle Ages saw a strict adherence to traditional gender roles. Makeup was used to emphasize these roles, with women using cosmetics to enhance their feminine features, while men generally refrained from wearing makeup except in specific theatrical or ceremonial contexts.

Gender roles in the Middle Ages were strictly defined. Men were expected to be strong, protectors, and providers, often engaged in warfare, labor, or governance. They rarely wore makeup, except in specific contexts like theater. Women, on the other hand, were expected to be nurturing, modest, and focused on domestic tasks. Makeup played a significant role in enhancing their feminine features, emphasizing pale skin, rosy cheeks, and darkened eyebrows. These roles were deeply rooted in medieval society, influenced by religious and cultural beliefs, and were rarely challenged. Any deviation from these gender norms was met with social stigma and often severe consequences.

Protection and Warding: Besides protection from the sun and the evil eye, makeup was believed to have protective qualities against other supernatural forces. For example, some individuals would paint crosses or other symbols on their faces to ward off evil spirits or diseases.

Conclusion

Makeup in the Middle Ages was far more than just a means of enhancing one's appearance. It served as a reflection of societal norms, beliefs, and values. Makeup was used to conform to beauty standards, address health concerns, and convey symbolism and spirituality. The complex role of makeup during this era reminds us that the concept of beauty and its implications have evolved significantly over time, shaped by cultural, religious, and social factors.